Inca Trail--Day 1

Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away.

     Breathtaking, the one word which encompasses the entirety of our 4-day hike through the Andes Mountains.  There were times in which I did measure the number of breaths I took.  Why?  Two things:  One, because one month of training probably wasn't enough, and two, because I was afraid my body would just choose to stop breathing, give up, throw in the towel, end the pain right now.  Thankfully, there were many moments that did take my breath away (not related to extreme physical exertion).  I caught myself simply smiling at the splendor of just being there, surrounded by mountains, engulfed in clouds, and walking on a 15th century trail.  I constantly felt myself gasping at the beauty surrounding me.  In every respect, this trek was absolutely breathtaking.

     Day 1 was composed of the remnants of acclimation sickness, the last real toilets we would see for 3 days (seats amiss, but I was still happy with these thrones), and a simple warm-up hike, about 6 miles, in preparation for day 2 (the worst physically....and mentally).  I, personally, had serious nerves about being the only female to not have hired an extra porter to carry my crap; however, it was well worth it in the end.  Now when someone asks if I am capable of doing something, I simply say that I hiked the Inca Trail with 20lbs on my back.....yes, I can do anything!

Early morning, bussing to breakfast and then to our starting point at km82 and at a height of 2600m.

All clean, pretty, and smelling great.  Wait for group picture, day 4.  We knew everyone except the two Australians in our group....but it felt like we were long lost amigos!

Trail begins this way.  This is your last chance to yield a taxi (horse)?

Holy moly, now there's a view.

Getting pointers on how to chew coca leaves, used to reduce acclimation sickness.

Donkeys were allowed on the trail on the first two days (by day 2, I believe my fellow-trekkers gave up on avoiding stepping in their excrement).  Porters, also known as chaskis, were allowed to carry a maximum of 50lbs.  This guy was given the task of carrying part of our tent.....or something (I'm no engineer).  During Inca times, chaskis were messengers carrying information from one location to another (UPS or FedEx is probably slower than these guys....and sandals were main part of their uniform).*

Serenity.....now.

I named her Tina.

Classic Inca scenery with the ruins and the corn.

Beauty at its best.

The foliage changed throughout the day (and the entire trek).  Cacti were frequent visitors in the beginning.

Pdub posing for his awesome wife.

Manny, our guide, pointing out an insect that when smashed produces a red ink, used for dyeing clothing and coloring lips.

Loved this picture!

Bridge over troubled water never stopped me.

Well lookey at that gorgeous couple....Ignore the sweat and large thing on my rear.

Wayllabamba at 3000m high.

Big lens time, unreal.

Blue skies, ruins, and some perty foliage.

I loved these little plants.  So colorful!

Trekking!!!*

Lunch time!!!  Yes, our porters carried all of this for us.  They were in charge of everything except our personal items, sleeping pads, and sleeping bags.  Those who hired an extra porter got to take a load off....no, really.

At camp the first night.  The conquistadors obviously made it this far with their horses and churches.  The people living in this village depended solely on donkey transportation as there were no roads (for cars) linking this city to any others.*

Apples to Apples, a little added weight to the pack for some added fun at camp.*

Our tents on the first night.  The ground was slightly angled, so that made for interesting sleeping.

White-capped mountain in the distance from our camp.*

*Pictures taken by other members of our hiking family.

Cuzco, Part Dos

Time to finish up Cuzco, so we can get to the main event (hiking).

The Plaza de Armas is located at the heart of the city.....and heart of the puma (remember, the city was originally built in this sacred animal's shape).  During Inca time, the square was called the Huaycaypata (sound it out, folks) and was double its size now.

You can see in the right corner of the photo the rainbow flag flying, which represents the four quarters of the Inca empire (not to be confused with the gay pride flag).

The Plaza de Armas with one of the churches in the background.  Note: PDub holding our travel bible.

Gorgeous, if I don't say so myself.

The Plaza by day....Can you tell those people are tourists?

A colonial archway which leads from the Plaza San Francisco to the church and convent of Santa Clara.  For us, it led to the market.

The Cuzco market was unlike any other I had been to.  I wasn't getting poked and prodded to buy something that I may have looked at for too long, and I could work with them (in my awesome Spanish) on the price.  Instead of junky souvenirs, we passed anything from flowers to food to alpaca clothing.....not clothing for your alpaca, but clothing made from alpaca....Duh.  My ill, fellow travelers weren't too excited to see the skinned cow hanging from the ceiling or to smell the cooking soups the locals were devouring.  Therefore, we purchased our alpaca sweaters, power walked through the food, and got the heck out of dodge.  (*Thank you K for letting me access your pictures!)

Alpaca this, alpaca that.  I'll take two please.

I wanted to tear right into this bread.*

Spice up your life.*

Queso?  That just might be my favorite table.  Maybe we should've asked her to say "cheese."*

Maize.....remember, they produce over 500 types of corn.*

Flowers....from a fish eye point of view.*

Qorikancha, built in the mid-15th century, was once an Inca temple with walls of gold (700 solid sheets weighing in at 2kg each), alters of gold, llamas of gold, and a sun of gold.  The Incas loved their gold.  They believed it to be given to them from the sun god, Inti; therefore, gold was not used as a form of currency or wealth but instead a sacred representation of their beliefs.  Within months of the arrival of the Spaniards, the golden treasures were looted and melted down to bricks.  Now, Qorikancha lays in ruins at the base of the church and convent of Santo Domingo.  Thank you, colonialism.

What remains of Qorikancha on the left and the platforms below with the church on the right.

The interior of Qorikancha with some goodlookin' individuals.

A portion of what the golden walls would've looked like if the flippin' Spanish would've stayed at home.....or maybe acted like civilized guests.  I mean, when I visit someone's house, I don't rip stuff off the walls.  Etiquette, my friends, etiquette.

The view from Qorikancha.  Evidently, the mummified incas (kings) would be set out on these terraces to enjoy the sun.

The Inca Museum was definitely a requirement if you wanted to learn anything about this great empire and its people.  After this visit, we then became Inca fact throwers for the rest of our trip.  Warning, here comes an Inca fact.......just kidding.

Warrior cries?  Warrior flutes?  Warrior feathers?

When traveling with the Dubs, you are always sure to eat good food and drink great bebidas (is that still redundant?).

On the rooftop of Marcelo Batata for drinks and dinner.

At Paddy Flaherty's, that claims to be the highest Irish pub in the world, toasting to none other than "diarrhea."  Too much information?  Probably so, but acclimation is a.....ahem, excuse me.....amazing.

A Decade of Valentine's Days

     One decade ago today, PDub and I had our first date.  At the age of 16, I was officially dating an older man (only by one year), and that first date couldn't have been more perfect!  The shaggy-haired, blonde boy picked me up in his green 1996 Gran Prix, took me to his house where we proceeded to watch A Few Good Men; he then gave me a dozen red roses (what what!), and returned me home.

     From that day on, I have had a best friend by my side to hold me when I cry, to laugh when I laugh (most of the time), to stand his ground when I am wrong, to have crazy adventures with, and to pass each day together side-by-side.  We have struggled through divorces, final exams, long-distance, and bad food, and we have celebrated through graduations, weddings, vacations, and good food.  Time hasn't been more real than when I am with him.  During those moments, we truly live life to its fullest and only regret the ticking clock that will end our time together one day.  Life is brief but love is forever.  Thank you for giving me the greatest gift, PDub!

I am living my happily ever after......

See the pyramids along the Nile

Watch the sunrise from a tropic isle

Just remember darling all the while

You belong to me

See the market place in old Algier

Send me photographs and souvenirs

Just remember when a dream appears

You belong to me

I'd be so alone without you

Maybe you'd be lonesome too and blue

Fly the ocean in a silver plane

See the jungle when it's wet with rain

Just remember till you're home again

You belong to me

I'd be so alone without you

Maybe you'd be lonesome too and blue

Fly the ocean in a silver plane

See the jungle when it's wet with rain

Just remember till you're home again

You belong to me

Cuzco--The Bellybutton City

Two children of the sun, Manco Capac and Mama Occlo Huaco, who were both brother and sister and husband and wife, were sent by the sun god, Inti, from Lake Titicaca to find a new place of residence.  With them, they took a golden staff, tapac-yauri, which was destined to effortlessly sink into the earth at their new home; this new residence happened to be Cuzco, Peru.

     Cuzco became known as the navel of the world, and subsequently, the site closest to mother nature.  In the 13th century, this city, which sat at the center of the Tawantinsuyu (the four regions), was designated as the capital of the Inca Empire, the largest empire of pre-Columbian history.  It is still considered the historical capital of Peru (Lima is of course the actual capital).  Not only is Cuzco the gateway to mother nature, but also, at 11,200ft, it is the gateway to one of the seven wonders of the world, Machu Picchu.

The Twantinsuyu with Cusco at the center.

Like other cities in the Inca Empire, Cuzco was shaped into one of the sacred animals, a puma.

Two children of small-town USA, PDub and JDub, who were not brother or sister (thank the lord) but husband and wife, were sent by the adventure god, Good-Times, from Washington D.C. to find a new place to wander.  With them, they took magical hiking boots (already broken in), which were destined to find them adventure.  They ended up in a bellybutton.

     It was recommended to spend at least three days in this bellybutton of a city to fully acclimate to the altitude before hiking.  The first couple of days were rough!  There's nothing like a huffing and puffing tourist who has to stop every block to catch her breath.....and wants to do a 26 mile hike up to Machu Picchu.  Thankfully, our first evening only included a planetarium visit and dinner.

Cuzco from our hostel.

Our hostel was on the side of a mountain where the sidewalk changed from flat to hilled to staired.  Just breath......or not, because you can't at 11,200ft!

     The Cuzco Planetarium was the perfect chance to learn about the southern hemisphere skies (completely different from what we see in the northern hemisphere) and specifically Inca astronomy.  The Incas lived as one with nature and utilized the skies for guidance in things such as travel and agriculture.  They named all the formations (like we have the little and big dipper) both light and dark.  Even some of the streets in Cuzco are aligned with certain formations.  No Google maps (with a blue dot) for the Incas; they had the skiz-ies.

Some amigos who joined in our sky learning.

Inca translation of the Milky Way.

     After the planetarium, we headed for some grub at the Uchu Steakhouse.  Did you know that the Incas have engineered nearly 80% of the world's seeds?  With their microclimates, use of the sun and time of year, and various elevations, the Incas learned to engineer and grow some tastebud-tickling food.  They have over 3,000 kinds of potatoes, 500 types of maize, and 10 colors of quinoa.  Bring on the tots, corn, and super grain!!....por favor.

Our group at Uchu Steakhouse

I got to eat alpaca for the first time.....and it was pretty darn good.

Based with potato followed by avocado and quinoa and topped with a flower.

Plaza de Armas.....The main square by night.  AND, we can't forget Jesus lighting up the skies in the top left.  The Incas didn't have a name for that guy.