Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Getting Sentimental....and a Russian Ballet

     When you ask a child what they want to be when they grow up, the highly entertaining answers generally range from astronaut to princess.  When I was asked that question, my answer was always "ballerina" (a typical girl answer).  At the age of 5, my parents enrolled me in dance classes so that I might pursue this dream, just like most little girls.  At the age of 9, they began taking me to the Broadway season series performed at the St. Louis Fox Theater.  I was lucky to have parents who saw my passions and helped to feed them.  By the age of 18, I was still dancing (unlike most girls); it was at this time that I chose the brains instead of the arts route, attending a private university and studying biology.  I was never able to give up dance completely; even to this day, I still torture my body with a class here and there.  Because of this love for the arts and even possibly for my own regrets of not becoming that ballerina (some would support that I have grown up), I still push myself to attend performances and enjoy the other world.  When I heard St. Petersburg was on our itinerary, I immediately purchased tickets to the ballet.
My first tutu.
Tap was never my favorite but who could hate the fringe, sequins, and excessively large bows?
     Ballet originated in the Italian Renaissance courts in the 15th century.  In the 17th century, France created the first theatrical ballet company coupled with opera, also generating its vocabulary.  In the 18th century, Russia took ballet to a completely new level, establishing one of the first independent companies, and becoming very influential in the art form.  This company, the Imperial Russian Ballet, was founded in the 1740's following Russia's first ballet school in 1738.  Although the Imperial Russian Ballet has changed names, now known as the Kirov Ballet or Mariinsky Ballet, it still thrives and is recognized as one of the world's greatest ballets.  You have probably guessed it by now, PDub and I attended one of their performances (Cinderella) at the new Mariinsky Theater (II).
A scene from the performance.

The little cinder girl (Diana Vishneva, who performs with the Mariinsky Ballet and the ABT....currently, one of the best ballerinas in the world).
The curtain call at the performance we attended.
The Mariinsky Theater (dating back to 1783) where individuals such as Anna Pavlova, George Balanchine, and Mikhail Baryshnikov danced.  We did not get to visit this theater, but it is at the top of our list for next time.
The Mariinsky Theater II sits right next door to the old one and is considered one of the largest theater venues in the world.  The $700 million stage opened merely a month before we visited.
In the auditorium of the Mariinsky Theater II awaiting the 49th performance of Ratmansky's Cinderella.
     I sat in the audience with tears in my eyes but a smile on my face.  I may not have grown up to be a ballerina, but my dreams came true that night.  I got to see one of my favorite stories performed by the best and oldest ballet companies on one of the newest stages with the most historical one right next door.  I realized that I am apart of that world even if I can only call myself a spectator, feeling the emotions and cheering on those who did become ballerinas.

I hope you don't get so emotional over what you wanted to be when you grew up.....a ninja, Indiana Jones, a monkey, etc.

Thursday, July 25, 2013

Our Walking Tour in St. Petersburg, Russia

     Put on your comfy shoes!  We are hitting the streets of the beautiful St. Petersburg for a walking tour, the best way to become acquainted with a new city.  My shoe selection: Toms.  Today, I glance at this choice with sadness thinking that this pair of shoes should now be retired with the number of miles I put on them and the wear and tear they faced.  Focus, the ode to my shoes is over, and we get back to topic, our walking tour.  Instead of hiring a guide, we simply opened our travel bible, Lonely Planet: St. Petersburg, and found a walking tour of the historic heart.  If you want the whole tour, I recommend purchasing the book, but here are a few sites we saw along the way....
Entering the Triumphal Arch at Palace Square
On the other side of the Triumphal Arch at Palace Square.  The architecture in St. P is so unique!
The blue and white building is the Winter Palace, where the ruling tsar spent the majority of their time.  It now is the Hermitage, housing artwork (we visited the following day).
Palace Square, where many historical events took place such as Bloody Sunday (1907) and the October Revolution of 1917.
Church on the Spilled Blood
Church on the Spilled Blood....what I consider to be St. Petersburg's skyline structure (Eiffel Tower to Paris, Arch to St. Louis, etc.).
There were several artists (youth to adult) in this area sketching or painting the church.
This ironwork was commonly found throughout the city.
Mikhailovsky Castle, also known as St. Michael's Castle and Engineers' Castle, which was also a royal residence.
Arts Square with a Monument to Pushkin, considered Russia's greatest poet, and the Russian Museum in the background.
Kazan Cathedral
Kazan Cathedral with a PDub
Some fun camera work.
St. Petersburg is considered the Venice of the North with its water roadways.  Church on the Spilled Blood is in the background.  This is probably one of my favorite photos of St. P; hence its extra largeness.
Bank Bridge with four griffins, which in mythology are guards of treasure....the bridge sits in front of a bank.
     Hope you enjoyed our stroll!

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Our Struggle in St. Petersburg, Russia

     Lonely Planet (our touring bible) refers to the history of St. Petersburg, also known as Petrograd and Leningrad, as one of struggle.  First, its struggle of identity, where even from its birth over 300 years ago, St. P has been striving to be more like Europe.  Second, its struggle with ideas, where communism has gone against fascism and more simply put, democracy versus autocracy (which is still an issue to this day).  As soon as PDub and I set foot on St. P soil, our struggle was with East Asian tour groups (apologies to all of my Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and Vietnamese friends).  In the line for immigration, I clung to PDub's arm fearing that myself and my 35lb pack would be knocked over and trampled by individuals shorter than me (and I am 5'3").
     No worries, after a few thrown elbows and bloody noses, PDub and I were on our way to the historic heart of St. P.  I instantly felt like I was in a different country where the architecture was like none I had seen before and the people spoke only Russian and looked completely different.  I have been to other countries (aside from the U.S.) but never felt this instant outsider notion.  When in Mexico, I felt like I was back in Texas, and when we visited Paris later in this trip, it took me three days to finally feel like I was in France.  To me, being a visitor and experiencing a new culture is like being in heaven, and Russia hit the spot.
     The shuttle dropped us off at St. Isaac's Cathedral (you can't miss it) where we proceeded to walk the few blocks to our hostel.  Yes, we went from hotel rooms with heated floors to rocking, tiny ferry rooms to a private room with community bathrooms, but for the price and location, we couldn't have asked for a better place to stay.  After hearing about the amenities, which included free international calls (sorry parents for not taking advantage of this), and dropping our packs off in our room, we headed for the streets of St. P.  First stop: food! at the ZooM Cafe where I indulged on some borscht, a cold, red soup containing cucumber, potato, beets, and topped with sour cream.
St. Isaac's Cathedral
Soul Kitchen Hostel Jr.  I would recommend this place to anyone!!
The ZooM Cafe.  We had a tough time finding places seeing they are typically hidden and the restaurant name written in Cyrillic.....kind of a challenge for us.

Borscht.....Probably wouldn't order it again but glad I did.
     After lunch, our true struggle began: getting everything in within the 72 hours (about 60 for us) that our visa-free allowed.  I look back at my travel journal and still can't fathom how we did it all, although we did miss much.  Here was our itinerary and what I hope to share with you over the next few days:

Day 1: Hostel Check-In
            Lunch
            Lonely Planet Walking Tour
            Pub Break
            Dinner
            Ballet Performance
            View and sunset from St. Isaac's Cathedral
Day 2: Breakfast
            Private Palace Tour (with lunch in there somewhere)
            Hermitage
            Dinner
Day 3: Breakfast
            Check-out
            Church of Spilled Blood
            Walk to Peter and Paul Fortress
            Lunch
            Hermitage
            Cafe Break
            Return to Ferry

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

St. Petersburg, Russia: Visa-Free on the Ferry from Helsinki

     The purpose of this blog: to aid those fellow-travelers and travel agents who would like to visit or plan someone's trip to St. Petersburg, Russia using the visa-free policy.

     With respect to this rule, I read so many articles, TripAdvisor comments, and of course the rule itself, Russian Federation Government Resolution No. 397.  I also spoke with our own travel agent as well as others, all of whom supported obtaining a travel visa and refuted the visa-free travel; of course, all of this made me extremely nervous and highly apprehensive to visit St. P.  In my mind, the Russians were not going to allow us into St. P from the ferry, and we would have to wait the rest of the day at the harbor to return.  Even worse, we would be contained in the tiniest of cells with bread and water, no toilet, no shower, and most likely torture for non-existent information until someone from our embassy or even the President of the United States would come to our rescue; hence, the start of World War III.  Luckily, none of this occurred, and my fears turned out to be ridiculous....even laughable.
     What is this visa-free rule?  In 2009, the Russian Government passed a new rule which allows foreign tourists and persons without citizenship traveling by ferry to enter St. P without a visa and remain there for no longer than 72 hours.  These persons may include those traveling on the ferry from Helsinki (like ourselves) or those traveling on a cruise ship.  All you need is a passport (duh), your arrival and departure ticket from the ferry (they give you when you check-in), hotel confirmation (never asked for it, but we had it), and a tour booked (this could be the shuttle from the ferry into the city...already included in your ferry price).  With all of this (which isn't much if you think about it), you have a trip to St. P.
Our first time on a boat overnight.
Our VERY tiny room for the night, and of all days, PDub decided that he was running low on socks (it was like day 4) and was wearing this pair for the second time.  The sweet smell of stinky feet was inescapable.  The flask was a gift from the groom.
On the deck of the boat before heading down to dine at one of the many restaurants and hit up cocktail hour at one of the bars.
     Why would we choose visa-free instead of getting a travel visa?  Obtaining the travel visa was our other option; this required a visit to the Russian embassy and some money (would you expect anything less).  If you do not have the convenience of having embassy row next door, your next best option is to hire a travel agent to get your visa.  A couple we met at the wedding obtained two 90-day tourist visas for $1,000.  PDub thought we could spend our travel money on other things, so we took advantage of the visa-free policy and ate more Russian pancakes.
     Honestly, our choice of using the visa-free policy worked out great for us.  My nerves were uncalled for, and I think that travel agents should take more advantage of this newer Russian rule.  Shoot me an e-mail if you have concerns or questions!

Monday, July 15, 2013

Passing through Helsinki, Finland

     After the wedding festivities, we took the train back to the rainy Helsinki, our main travel hub.  I say rainy because that it did every day we were there.  Upon our return, we checked in at the Hilton, where PDub was able to use his points for the room (if it's free, it's for me!), and proceeded to prepare for the next leg of our trip.  During our preparation and over the evening and next day, we did get to do some touring of Helsinki.
The Hilton...Our first free night and the largest room yet.  (The bathroom even had a floor warmer).
     Helsinki is the capital of Finland and located on the shore of the Gulf of Finland.  Although Helsinki dates as far back as 1550 (first established as a trading town), it was appointed by Russia as the capital in 1812 to ensure Swedish persuasion was minimal.  It was around this time that the city center was built, and this area is where we spent most of our time.
     Our favorite area to stroll was called the Esplanadi, consisting of two main streets overseeing the water and garden and lined with several shops and cafes.  Nearby is the Uspenski Cathedral, which was built from 1862-1868 by a Russian architect and overlooks the city of Helsinki.  Although we were unable to go inside (closed), I have heard the interior is lovely.  Another church in the area, the Helsinki Cathedral, cannot be missed seeing that it is the distinctive landmark for Helsinki's skyline, like the Eiffel Tower for Paris or the Arch for St. Louis.  It was built around the same time as the other church, started in 1830 and finished in 1852, and it sits on one side of Senate Square, the area where citizens did and still do congregate.  Lastly, you can't miss the more recent church that was built into and out of a rock, Temppeliaukio Church (opened in 1969).  Think we have a thing for churches....or is it just this city?
Uspenski Cathedral....PDub can't handle keeping both eyes open when the sun is out.
Up close.....no worries for the looming storm cloud, it does contain rain.
One of the Love Lock Bridges we saw on our trip.  You get a personalized lock for you and your love and put it on one of these bridges....an expression of locking down your own love and ditching the key (a pair of bolt cutters would probably ruin this symbolism pretty quickly).
Overlooking the Helsinki Cathedral from the Uspenski Cathedral....pocket pose.
Standing in Senate Square looking up to the Helsinki Cathedral.
Overlooking Senate Square from the Helsinki Cathedral.
Inside the Helsinki Cathedral.  Everything was very white....very pure in my mind.
Martin Luther himself....stone pose.
The organ in the Helsinki Cathedral.
The Temppeliaukio Church (Church of Rock).  Again, don't worry about the storm cloud, gettin' caught in the rain is no biggie.  It's almost like the Finnish are unfazed by it.
The interior of the Church of Rock.  All natural light makes it very earthy....it could be that it was also built out of surrounding stones.
The altar of the Church of Rock.
     Other than one more layover, which consisted of several chapters in Game of Thrones in the Esplanadi, I hereby conclude our Finland time.

Friday, July 12, 2013

A Rehearsal and Wedding, Finnish Style

     It seems that we are traveling all over the world to witness our friends tie the knot but no complaints.  Our own wedding took place in Mexico under a gazebo on the beach.  The next destination wedding we attended took place in a castle in Ireland.  This destination wedding in Finland occurred in the largest wooden church in the world.  Thank you for giving us a reason to travel and see and experience so many new things!  I am looking forward to many more destination weddings (already have one on the calendar for January).
     So after the long hours of traveling and brief tourist outings, the wedding festivities quickly arrived.  On Friday evening, we attended the rehearsal at the church, dinner at the father of the bride's house, and drinks at a local place.
The groomsmen....and I thought PDub was tall...
The groom and PDub.
Rehearsing.
The lovely couple.
      On Saturday, we attended the ceremony and reception.  The wedding was absolutely beautiful and was held in the Kerimäki Church that was built between 1844 and 1847 and can hold 5,000 people.  Although the rumor has been disproven, the size of the church was blamed on a miscommunication between the architect (working in centimeters) and the builder (working in inches).  Ah, the beauty of having different measurement systems.  After the ceremony, we went to the reception venue, which overlooked one of the many lakes.  The dinner was scrumptious with the best reindeer meat I have had (tasted like a cross between pepperoni and salami); plus, this Fazer guy really knows how to do good chocolate.  Paul's speech was fabulous (no really, it was), and the band even learned how to play country music.  You couldn't have asked for a better evening!
The largest wooden church in the world.
The groom's family.
Before the ceremony....
The interior of the church.
After the ceremony.....
Rice.
More rice.
A happy couple.
Another happy couple...wait...same people.
Cheers!
The boys gave the groom a ball-and-chain keychain.
Caution: Suspenders.
Every wedding needs a kick line.
Two-steppin' for their first dance.
My favorite picture that their photographer took....really captures the beauty of the area (and the couple of course).